So far, this is what I have found out.
Lima, Los Inkas, Villa and La Planicie are 18 hole private courses. If you want to pay the big bucks for membership, they will take your money. There are some short terms memberships available, but have some major restrictions. You can play Villa as a tourist($100,plus caddy and tip), call ahead and confirm.
La Planicie finally responded to the request by the expats with a monthly fee that was unreasonable and we declined.
A member can get you on as a guest, but finding them is difficult.
Los Andes, Granja Azual are 9 hole courses. Los Andes is private, but you can play with a member or a member can host you. Higher price if member is not with you. Granja Azul is more of a semi-private 9 hole course. It is my understanding after the last trip, that they welcome outside play. But, it would be a good idea to call ahead.
San Bartolo has a 9 hole public course. It is old school, oil/sand mix for tees and greens, dirt(all dirt) fairways, no shade, only green grass is the practice green. You need to do it once for the experience. San Bartolo looks like a beach town, busy in season and pretty quiet the rest of the year.
good luck golfers!