Nooks, Crannys and Dives

[cajun jamie]

OK, let's have it. I want to know about nooks, crannys and dives. In my opinion, some of the best places in Lima are little holes in the wall. Places to go with ambiance, but not all the crowds.

Want a sandwich and a wine or beer - Juanitos in Barranco. Want a little tourist flare, but not the crowds - the restaurants in Puente de los suspiros in Barranco. Good music, but smoky - Tayta in Parque Kennedy.
Want to be floored by a Pisco? La Calesa in San Isidro.

More?

[Anna Con]

Been to Lima twice and avoided Miraflores stayed in El Centro...wandered streets trying to find these little places..did find one little crannie but wouldnt remember how to go there...will take direction lead me!! Really wanted some music place will travel ...but I like to hang with the locals.
Right on Jamie!!

[naturegirl]

cAfe La Maquina, Diex Canseco and Schell has the worldn's best hot chocolate.

[sonia]

Jaime, it seems like the places you are looking for to a limeño would be called "un huarique". All over the city, there are little, unpretentious places with good food that are known only to the locals. They have even been TV programs on them. In some that I've seen, Gaston Acurio goes hunting all over the city for the best ones. Ask a Peruvian friend, or even the next taxi driver, if they can recommend a good huarique to you.

Good luck and have fun exploring! Please write back when you find places you enjoy!

Sonia

[Anna Con]

Thank you Jamie and Sharon, I will write these spots down and go cruisin'
A neewbie nottotally fluent with the language cant always ask the locals..but Im learnin! Again Gracias!

[sonia]

Jamie, continuing on the topic...

I did a youtube search for "huarique Lima" and saw a few videos on them. The food looks delicious and at least one of the videos includes the address and phone number of the place.

Sonia

[naturegirl]

Don-t forget the bubble tea place!

[Kim.d]

Two thumbs up for la Maquina!! Juanitos too!!

Also for an awesome, cheap ceviche you gotta try a dive in the back of a market in Barranco the market is called El Capullo (i think thats rude in eurpoean spanish haha) which is on Union just around the corner form Miguel Grau. The market is really small but towards the back has a few food stalls, towards the left is this place (no name!) but there's a bar type thing. You get ceviche and sopa for 8soles i think and they also have the Tradito ceviches con palta and arroz con mariscos etc etc super rico, nothing fancy tho!
me encanta Barranco

[David]

Jamie,

Thanks for starting this post! There must be tons of great out of the way places to discover.

Keep the list going.

David

[naturegirl]

this is too good of a list. Anyone else have recommendations?

[cajun jamie]

Los Enanos - 1 block below Angamos on Arica in Miraflores. 5 soles for a big pitcher of fresh squeezed juices and really good sandwiches. It's a corner stand with outdoor stools. Really cool place to meet and chat and drink something healthy.

[naturegirl]

SOunds good.

[rgamarra]

Has anyone been to Adios Chow in Miraflores? I noticed that it's fairly new on the block.

[Kim.d]

El Elnano fruit bar place is awesome! Also do great toasties and other greasy delights...I think it's even open till 2am on the weekends!!

I've been to Adios Chow once - pretty good from what I can remember, but it's always dead. Maybe too much competition from Cafe Z which is a firm favorite? In fact, aren't they owned by the same guy?

[cajun jamie]

2 places I've enjoyed recently in San Miguel / Magdalena

1. La Antojeria- great chicharron sandwiches and juice. Perfect for a weekend brunch. Deserts and coffee are great too. It's on the corner of Alberto del Campo and Juan de Aliaga

2. The original San Antonio, quite nearby the above address, Roca de Vergallo 201, Magdalena del Mar. Great soups, sandwiches, coffees and desserts.

[cajun jamie]

Surco - on Aviacion, just down the block from Polvos Rosados and Ovalo Higuereta is El Rocoto restaurant. Nice place for Saturday or Sunday lunch. They offer a nice buffet of Arequipa style foods. 50 soles per person, including dessert for the buffet. 10 soles for a nice glass of wine.

Apart from the buffet I sampled their fried Cuy. Very nice indeed. The restaurant is nice, the setting is very nice and the service was very good.

[mammalu]

CJamie I love your reviews!!!Just a suggestion.

Shouldn't them be in the Culinary Forum? Or you can, pretty please,
make a review for each one (when you have time of course), so it is easier to look for a restaurant? (so both Forums benefit from your opinion?)

i.w. El Rocoto, Arequipa Cuisine, in Surco

I will copy your post for my next trip, good, very good tips indeed.

Maria

[jcoloma]

there is an awesome place in Jesus Maria where people go get an amazing leche de tigre- very informal, it's almost like street vendors cause everyone just stands around and eats it out of plastic cups. but it is SO GOOD! does anyone know what i am talking about?

there is also a place that has these very popular almejas (ceviche/choros style)... it's called Bigotes in Miraflores.

[Pertemba]

The Nautical Rose is an excellent place for seafood lovers and la Costa Virde has a very delightful buffet, very international.

Pertemba

[cajun jamie]

CJamie I love your reviews!!!Just a suggestion.

Shouldn't them be in the Culinary Forum? Or you can, pretty please,
make a review for each one (when you have time of course), so it is easier to look for a restaurant? (so both Forums benefit from your opinion?)

i.w. El Rocoto, Arequipa Cuisine, in Surco

I will copy your post for my next trip, good, very good tips indeed.

Maria

Hi Mammalu,
Sorry, I wasn't sure if this thread fit Culinary because it is a hodge podge of restaurants, bars, clubs and whatever hang-outs are not touristy and are off the beaten path.

Many thanks!

jamie

[jcoloma]

So that place i mentioned is called Cevicheria Maria. It's really good.
I also really like Alfresco and Segundo Muelle in Miraflores, and Pescados Capitales (forget where it is- close to La Mar, which is also really good... can't wait till they open it up in San Francisco). But the latter are not quite "nooks, cranny's and dives".

[jcoloma]

I am not sure if you need to have access to facebook (be registered), but here is a group that lists a bunch of places

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=22985977188

[imec]

A couple of peruvian websites that may be relevant. They are not quite chowhound.com (they have a South America section) but have a lot of good info.

http://www.cucharasbravas.com/
http://lasectadeltenedor.blogspot.com/

http://www.chowhound.com/

[naturegirl]

there is an awesome place in Jesus Maria where people go get an amazing leche de tigre- very informal, it's almost like street vendors cause everyone just stands around and eats it out of plastic cups. but it is SO GOOD! does anyone know what i am talking about?

there is also a place that has these very popular almejas (ceviche/choros style)... it's called Bigotes in Miraflores.

I love leche de tigre, but not the spicy kind. Where is it?

[jcoloma]

It's not that spicy, and it has a bunch of yummy stuff in it! I don't remember the exact cross street, I just remember it was in Jesus Maria... I will probably be there in a couple weeks so I will get back to you on that.

[naturegirl]

anyone find any new good places to eat? I saw that Luchi Bistro in San Isidro made it into the LAN magazine.

[antonio]

Very good topic Cajun Camie,

Lima is full of places only knows by peruvians where you can eat and drink tasty delicious food. It takes time to find those place because the only system you can get information is through advice given by friends and the family. As someone said before it’s a “huarique” but it’s also named as “un hueco”. For example you can ask to your peruvian friend where you can find “un hueco donde comer rico”.

I live in Magdalena, and this district joint to San Miguel, Jesus Maria and Lince are among the most traditional districts in Lima and it’s a shame that there are not even mentioned on any travelers guide.

If you want to discover a good place where to eat wherever you go in Peru, I think there is a non-written rule of thumb. If you walk through any street and see a lot of person eating or drinking in a place that suddenly you discover, for sure that place has something special inside (good food and/or good prices) Usually if a place to eat is deserted (no people inside) the reason could be because it’s so new or has very bad quality of food.

In Magdalena, there is several “dulcerias” (an special place where you can eat desserts) but there is one that really is impressive. I can’t remember the name, but it’s located some steps from the intersection of Brasil Avenue and Bolognesi. It’s on the left side of Brasil Avenue (coming for the ocean). This place has easily more than 7 years preparing “dulces limeños” and has small tables where you can take a seat for eating.

I have been in at least 5 different “anticucherias” (a place where you can eat an “anticucho”), but for my taste and the taste of everyone I know definitely “doña Julia” is the best one. It’s located in Jesus Maria, near the “plaza San Jose”. It’s easy to arrive there. In front of Plaza San Jose is located a cathedral style church that has a gothic style building that is easily visible from some blocks. It’s located around 5 blocks from 12 street of Brasil Avenue.

There is another wonderful place for eating one of the best ice-creams, but unfortunately don’t remember names and addresses, because whenever I want to go, I just take a “micro” and go there (without writing down the name and address), so will be back with the addresses and names soon.

[tupacperu]

Cebicheria LUZ in Mercado Magdelena, best chicha and chebiche and great fried fish and seafood.

Try their leche de tigre !

[mtwilson]

there is an awesome place in Jesus Maria where people go get an amazing leche de tigre- very informal, it's almost like street vendors cause everyone just stands around and eats it out of plastic cups. but it is SO GOOD! does anyone know what i am talking about?

Yup, I know that place, it is good, but there are a couple of secrets to it. First, if you go inside and order the leche de tigre to go you get a much larger plastic dish for the same price as on the street side and second, if you go into the nearby mecado central (I believe it is No.2), you can get the same thing cheaper. The cevicheria in the mercado is fantastic! Look for the stall in the mercado with the photo of the woman who owns it standing there with Gaston! umm GOOD![/quote]

[american_in_lima]

The best ceviche I have had in Lima is:

Mi Barrunto.

http://www.mibarrunto.com/

I have eaten here over 20 times. It beats places like La Mar, Punto Azul, etc.

It's in La Victoria, but the block where the restaurant is has lots of security. Gaston and other people have done reports on their ceviche. I have taken Peruvians there, and they are all amazed that they had never heard of it. Great place. They have three floors with tables and if you go on a Sunday, there will always be a line..packed with people waiting to get in.

Here is the video that Gaston shot for his program:

http://www.mibarrunto.com/paginas/gaston2.htm

If anyone makes it there, let me know if you enjoy the suggestion.



George

[american_in_lima]

OK, let's have it. I want to know about nooks, crannys and dives. In my opinion, some of the best places in Lima are little holes in the wall. Places to go with ambiance, but not all the crowds.

Want a sandwich and a wine or beer - Juanitos in Barranco. Want a little tourist flare, but not the crowds - the restaurants in Puente de los suspiros in Barranco. Good music, but smoky - Tayta in Parque Kennedy.
Want to be floored by a Pisco? La Calesa in San Isidro.

More?

Cajun Jamie - Here are some of my picks as well for your topics - I also added others as well with some of my thoughts:

Want a sandwich and a wine or beer

- El Peruanito - Angamos (Miraflores); El Enano in Miraflores is also great (no beer) but to die for juices and sandwiches.

Want a little tourist flare, but not the crowds

- I'll take Cafe-Cafe off of Diagonal and Parque Kennedy. Cold beer, with tables outside. I was there on Sunday afternoon since it was a great day outside washing back some cold ones with some friends.

Good music, but smoky crowds

- Tayta is good (I was there last weekend!).
- Another good place for live music; definitely a large hole in the wall and cover bands - El cuarto gato in Lince - Av. Arequipa on the corner where the Norky's is). Same rustic, bohemian type place.

Want to be floored by a Pisco?

I agree with Jamie. La Calesa in San Isidro. Samy and his famous Pisco Sours. My favorite for Pisco Sours places in Lima. Also very good is Huaringas in Miraflores. They have a variation of Pisco Sour drinks. Very good. After two of them, you'll notice the sensation in your knees weaken.

Best Pizzeria with ambiance: La Antica - Dos de Mayo - Brick oven pizza. Thin crust. Nice candlelit ambience. Nice wines, great postres.

Italian Food without breaking the bank but fresh homemade quality - Danica...Av. Conquistadores - San Isidro

Nice place for a drink and appetizers on a first date on a Friday - Bravo Bar - Av. Conquistadores


Best place to have a coffee - Starbucks...just kidding... The coffee at Cafe Verde on Santa Cruz and General Cordova in Miraflores is very good...Place is always dead there, but the coffee is good. Cafe with ambience - I'll take Manolo's on Larco. Always bustling with people after 7 pm...good people watching.. Little more expensive, but good if you are in the mood for noisy cafe in Miraflores.

Also, La Baguette - Pardo y Aliago/Conquistadores in San Isidros
Great pastries as well.

Best place to get a Shwarma - Tierra Santa - Schell...next to the BCP..right off of Larco

Best place to get a cheese burger - Sorry to say it but since choices are limited - TGIF - Ov. Gutierrez

Best Chocolate Shake - 4D (Salaverry in San Isidro across from Pharmax)

Best place to eat from 1 a.m. to 5 a.m. in the morning after a night out:

Caldo de Gallina - Calle Arambiru
Super Rueda - Avenida Pardo
El Enano (Closes at 2 or 3 a.m.) - One block from Angamos, near Suiza labs.
Vivanda/Metro - Miraflores - Open 24 hours (desperation)

Best Hidden cevicheria in Miraflores (Clean, nice and affordable)
Isla de Mono - Two story house converted into a cevicheria - San Martin/Pasaje Sucre in Miraflores) - I lived down the street from there. Consistant ceviche, won't break the bank

Best Ceviche in Lima - Mi Barrunto. (mibarrunto.com)

Best place to sit at the bar, eat ceviche and drink interesting pisco variations - La Mar (Avenida La Mar) - Owned by Gaston

Best Ceviche de Conchas Negras - Emilio y Gladys - (Brena)

Best place for Chicharron/Desayuno Lurin - Avenida Universitaria in San Miguel before getting to La Marina. I like all of them of that street to be honest



George

[meggyrosey]

Barbalonia is a great dive with bands that are awesome on Friday and Saturday nights playing great classic rock...it's on Alcanfores Diagonal from Vivanda...

also there is a great underground type dive bar around the corner but i can't remember the name...it's next to the Casino Fiesta (heading in the opposite direction from Vivanda) right past a clothing store...there is a closed gate with a bouncer guy it's a little hard to find...but worth it

[american_in_lima]

also there is a great underground type dive bar around the corner but i can't remember the name...it's next to the Casino Fiesta (heading in the opposite direction from Vivanda) right past a clothing store...there is a closed gate with a bouncer guy it's a little hard to find...but worth it

The name of the dive bar next to the Casino Fiesta is called "Valquiria" - Very interesting mix of characters there. Usually picks up around 3 or 4 a.m. in the morning until about 8 a.m. If you get there a 2 a.m., you will be the only one in the place. It's considered an "after hours" place.

If they know you, they will let you in..If not, they will just say they are closed. Not proud to admit it, but the door men know me



George

[mtwilson]

The best ceviche I have had in Lima is:

Mi Barrunto.

http://www.mibarrunto.com/

I have eaten here over 20 times. It beats places like La Mar, Punto Azul, etc.

It's in La Victoria, but the block where the restaurant is has lots of security. Gaston and other people have done reports on their ceviche. I have taken Peruvians there, and they are all amazed that they had never heard of it. Great place. They have three floors with tables and if you go on a Sunday, there will always be a line..packed with people waiting to get in.

Here is the video that Gaston shot for his program:

http://www.mibarrunto.com/paginas/gaston2.htm

If anyone makes it there, let me know if you enjoy the suggestion.

Wow! This place is fantastic!! I have been looking for it since a local took me there, but I couldn't remember the name. I couldn't agree more. The food is top quality, the ambiance is nice and it adheres to the three B's, Bueno, Bonito and Barrato! Highly recommend this and yes, the area is a very secure zone in La Victoria. The leche de tigre is fantastic too! Thanks!!!

[american_in_lima]

Mike: Glad to hear that you loved Mi Barrunto. For anyone that has not gone, I would recommend ordering:

El ceviche Mi barrunto
Arroz con mariscos
Causa de Cangrejo

The beer is always very very cold (al polo).


George

[anuta]

wouw, George, you know your stuff !

About Mi Barrunto, my bf has been promising to take me there for a while. We once passed by in a taxi and honestly, the area looked scary and I'm pretty accostomed to visiting poor areas (ok, relatively poor, like the centro).

This thread is good. I went to a few nice small places, but can't remember the adresses right now. There's one Cevicheria next to Polvos Azules, looks like nothing special, but the Ceviche and Sudado was amazing and for half of the price you get in good restaurants. I'll get the address next time we go to polvos.

If you're on Abancay, there's a cevicheria in Mercado central. Right on the same floor where they sell fish. It's always busy. I discovered it 3 years ago. For 7 soles, you get a good ceviche and the fish broth, chilcano. They also have some criollo dishes. Better going after 1 pm, to be able to get a seat.

There's a restaurant close to my place, in Lince, in surprising location, on the limit of an good and not so good areas (but not dangerous). It's called Blue Moon. I pass by it every time I go to the mercado and I love the decor (ceiling covered with wine bottles, photos, cheeses and meats)! We never got around to eating there, but we heard good reviews. It was funded by an Italian immigrant and offers criollo and italian food and buffet. Here's the website: www.restaurantebluemoon.com

[american_in_lima]

wouw, George, you know your stuff !

About Mi Barrunto, my bf has been promising to take me there for a while. We once passed by in a taxi and honestly, the area looked scary and I'm pretty accostomed to visiting poor areas (ok, relatively poor, like the centro).

This thread is good. I went to a few nice small places, but can't remember the adresses right now. There's one Cevicheria next to Polvos Azules, looks like nothing special, but the Ceviche and Sudado was amazing and for half of the price you get in good restaurants. I'll get the address next time we go to polvos.

If you're on Abancay, there's a cevicheria in Mercado central. Right on the same floor where they sell fish. It's always busy. I discovered it 3 years ago. For 7 soles, you get a good ceviche and the fish broth, chilcano. They also have some criollo dishes. Better going after 1 pm, to be able to get a seat.

There's a restaurant close to my place, in Lince, in surprising location, on the limit of an good and not so good areas (but not dangerous). It's called Blue Moon. I pass by it every time I go to the mercado and I love the decor (ceiling covered with wine bottles, photos, cheeses and meats)! We never got around to eating there, but we heard good reviews. It was funded by an Italian immigrant and offers criollo and italian food and buffet. Here's the website: www.restaurantebluemoon.com

Anuta - Please do get us those addresses....I am always looking for my next new little "hole" in the wall to sit down and eat. I have not eaten too much in center of Lima yet, but seems like you have. I need to try some of those place. I also heard about Blue Moon from a friend but have yet to go.

George

[antonio]

The best ceviche I have had in Lima is:

Mi Barrunto.

http://www.mibarrunto.com/

I have eaten here over 20 times. It beats places like La Mar, Punto Azul, etc.

Never listen about that place before, but will give a try. My palate is well educated

As I promised before, I have the address of a hidden heladeria near my house. The name is Speciale an is located on Calle Libertad cuadra 12 - Magdalena

[mammalu]

So...George, can we drop your name to get good service or a discount?

Blue Moon, Anuta, is a nice place. Unfortunately I was not feeling well when I stopped for lunch, so no buffet for me...but they were kind enough to prepare a Dieta de Pollo for me. Bummer...next time, I will have the buffet!

[american_in_lima]

So...George, can we drop your name to get good service or a discount?

Blue Moon, Anuta, is a nice place. Unfortunately I was not feeling well when I stopped for lunch, so no buffet for me...but they were kind enough to prepare a Dieta de Pollo for me. Bummer...next time, I will have the buffet!

Funny Mammalu - They don't know my name, but they definitely do know my face, so you can always bring a picture

There is a waiter who is always there (excellent service) named "William".

George

[uwwgal]

4 estaciones in surco / san borja (not sure which!) - aviacion with los artes... looks a bit shady, but always packed... and there chicken sandwiches are the best!!!!

[Arroz con Pollo]

I like this "menu" called Natalia in Miraflores. It's not that the food is anything special, it's as good as any other decent S/7 menu in Miraflores but it's the fact that it's open until 10pm! Getting a lomo saltado for S/7 at 8pm is hard to find in Miraflores. It is located on Alconfores on the corner of Benevides across from Vivanda/Fiesta Casino.